DIY Paving Guide: How to Lay Pavers Like a Pro

A paved outdoor area can instantly boost your home’s curb appeal, add value, and create a welcoming space for guests. Whether it’s a patio, path, or driveway, laying pavers is a practical way to enhance your front or backyard.

Paving is the process of laying bricks, stones, or concrete pavers over a compacted base to form a stable, level surface.

The best part? You don’t need to hire a professional. With the right materials, proper preparation, and step-by-step guidance, DIY paving is achievable — even for beginners.

In this guide, our paving experts walk you through how to lay pavers like a pro. From choosing materials and preparing the base to laying, compacting, and sealing, you’ll learn exactly how to get a long-lasting, professional finish — without the tradie price tag.

Planning Your Paving Project

Before choosing paver colours or patterns, take some time to plan your project properly. A clear plan helps you avoid mistakes, stay on budget, and visualise the final result.

Start by measuring the area you want to pave. Use string lines, stakes, or white spray paint to outline the space. Then calculate the square metreage (length × width) to determine how many pavers you’ll need. It’s smart to order 5–10% extra to allow for cuts, breakages, or future touch-ups.

Next, think about how the space will be used. A driveway requires thicker, heavy-duty pavers, while a garden path or courtyard may not. For areas exposed to water — like a poolside or outdoor kitchen — go for non-slip pavers to keep things safe.

Finally, check with your local council to see if you need any permits or approvals. Some councils have rules about the type of pavers or base materials you can use, so it’s worth confirming before you get started.

Tools, Materials & Safety Gear

Before you begin, you’ll want a few handy tools and supplies to help you lay pavers properly. Having it all sorted up front will save you time and frustration once you start.

Materials you’ll likely need:

• Pavers
• Road base (or quarry rubble)
• Bedding sand (washed river or concrete sand)
• Jointing sand or pave set
• Concrete mix (for edge restraints)
• Optional: sealer, drainage solutions

Common tools:

• Shovel and spade
• Wheelbarrow
• String line and stakes
• Spirit level
• Measuring tape
• Rubber mallet
• Plate compactor (hire if needed)
• Trowel and broom
• Screed rails and screed bar
• Brick saw (for cuts)

Don’t forget safety gear:

• Safety glasses (especially when cutting)
• Gloves and sturdy boots
• Hearing protection (if using power tools or a compactor)
• Long sleeves, sunscreen, and a hat for sun protection

Once everything’s on-site, you’re ready to start preparing the base — which is where the real groundwork begins.

Step 1: Prepare Your Base

 

A) Excavate the Area

Start by clearing the area of any grass, debris, or old paving. Once the surface is clean, it’s time to dig down to the right depth to make room for your base layers and pavers.

How deep should you go? It depends on what you’re paving:

• Walkways or patios: Paver thickness + 30mm bedding sand + 75–100mm compacted base
• Driveways: Paver thickness + 30mm bedding sand + 100–150mm compacted base

Use stakes and string lines to mark the finished surface level. From there, work backwards to calculate how deep you need to excavate. Don’t forget to allow for a gentle slope — roughly 15mm per metre — to help rainwater drain away from buildings or structures.

B) Prepare, Level, and Compact the Sub-Base

After excavation, you’ll be left with exposed soil — this is your sub-base. It needs to be level, firm, and well-compacted, as it supports every layer above.

If your project involved trenching for pipes or cables, backfill those areas in layers no thicker than 150mm, compacting each one as you go to prevent sinking later.

Use a shovel or rake to level out the soil as evenly as possible. Then, go over the area with a plate compactor (you can hire one if needed) to create a stable, compacted surface ready for the next step: adding road base.

C) Add and Compact the Road Base

Spread the material evenly across the entire area, aiming for:

• 50–80 mm thickness for walkways and patios
• 100–150 mm for driveways or heavier traffic areas

Use a rake to level it out as smoothly, then, compact the base using a plate compactor. Ensure to run it over the area several times in different directions to get a tightly packed, solid foundation.

If your base needs to be deeper than 80 mm, add the material in layers — ideally around 75 mm at a time – compacting each one thoroughly before adding the next. This layering technique ensures your base stays stable and doesn’t settle unevenly down the line.

Once compacted, your base should feel firm underfoot and show little to no movement when walked on. With this done, you’re ready to move on to the bedding sand layer.

D) Add Bedding Sand

With your road base in place, it’s time to add bedding sand. This is the layer your pavers will sit on and is essential for keeping them level.

You can use either washed river sand or washed concrete sand  for this step. Both are clean, well-graded sand types that won’t shift or wash away easily. Just avoid bricklayers’ sand (brickies sand) or anything too fine or clay-like, as it won’t drain properly or hold its shape under pressure.

Spread the sand across the entire area to a depth of about 30mm. Don’t worry about compacting it as this will happens later when the pavers are laid into place. Instead, simply focus on making sure the sand is evenly distributed.

E) Screed the Sand

Screeding is all about getting your sand base smooth and level. It gives your pavers a flat, even surface to sit on, so everything looks neat and stays in place.

Here’s how to do it:

1. Lay down two straight, sturdy screeding guides — like metal bars or timber — about 1 to 3 metres apart. Set them at the level you want the top of the sand to sit.
2. Use a straight edge (like a piece of timber or aluminium) to drag across the top of the guides, smoothing out the sand as you go.
3. Once it’s level, carefully remove the guides and fill the gaps with a bit more sand, smoothing them out with a trowel.
4. Don’t walk on the screeded sand — it needs to stay flat and untouched until the pavers go down. Only screed as much area as you plan to lay pavers on that same day.

Once that’s done, you’re ready to start laying your pavers! 

Step 2: Lay the Pavers

Start laying your pavers from a straight edge or corner, like along a house wall or fence line. This gives you a solid reference point and helps keep your rows straight. If you start in the middle and work outwards, keeping your pattern aligned is much harder.

Here’s how to do it:

A) Lay them dry first

Place your pavers on top of the screeded sand without jointing sand or compaction. Don’t press them down just yet. This step is about checking spacing, alignment, and your pattern. It’s much easier to adjust now than later.

B) Begin with a full paver

Start at your chosen edge with a full-sized paver. Set it gently on the sand and line it up with your string line or guide. This first row is important as it sets the pace for the rest of the job.

C) Leave a 2–3mm gap between each paver

Use plastic spacers if you’ve got them, or just eyeball a small gap — around 2 to 3mm. These gaps are essential for the jointing sand, which helps lock everything in place.

D) Check levels as you go

Use a spirit level across the top of your pavers to ensure everything is nice and even. If a paver is sitting too high or too low, lift it up and adjust the sand underneath. Don’t try to force it down.

E) Stand on pavers, not sand

As you lay more pavers, always stand or kneel on the ones you’ve already placed. Avoid stepping on the screeded sand as even a small step can throw off your levels.

Once all your full pavers are in, mark and cut any edge pieces to size using a brick saw or an angle grinder with a diamond blade. And don’t forget your safety gear — glasses, gloves, and hearing protection are a must when cutting. 

Step 3: Lock In the Edges

Now it’s time to secure the edges of your paving. Edge restraints stop the outer pavers from shifting or spreading over time, which can lead to gaps, uneven surfaces, or a wobbly finish.

If your pavers sit snugly against something solid — like a fence, concrete path, or garden border — that might already act as a natural edge. But where there’s no built-in support, you’ll need to install proper edging to keep everything in place.

Here are three popular types of edging that you can use: gravel or brick, timber, and metal.

• Brick: Gives a tidy, finished look and holds pavers in place, but must be set in mortar or concrete. Don’t lay bricks loose in soil — they won’t provide proper support.
• Timber: Treated hardwood or sleepers are easy to work with and blend in well, especially in garden settings. Just make sure they’re rot-resistant and slightly raised to avoid water damage.
• Steel or plastic edging systems: Quick to install and ideal for curves. Steel is strong and long-lasting; plastic is lightweight and easier to shape. Both are pinned into the ground with spikes.
• Concrete: The most durable option. Trowel concrete into a shallow trench along the paver edge for a strong, hidden restraint — great for driveways or high-traffic areas.

But it’s not the easiest DIY task, and concrete edges can be sharp.

Step 4: Fill in The Joints

With your pavers in place and edges secured, it’s time to lock them together. This is achieved by filling in the joints between each paver.

Start by sweeping fine, dry jointing sand across the pavers by using a broom. This helps stabilise the layout, reduces shifting, and ensures weed growth is kept to a minimum.

Once the sand has been spread evenly, use a compactor or tamper to press the pavers down and lock them in place. To avoid damaging your pavers, place a rubber mat or a piece of carpet under the compactor.

After compacting, some of the sand will settle, so sweep in a little more to top up the joints. Give the whole area a final sweep to remove any loose sand sitting on the surface.

Pro tip: Consider using a stabilised jointing sand, such as Pave Set or polymeric sand for outdoor areas prone to heavy rain or strong winds. These products include a binding agent that hardens slightly when watered in, helping to reduce erosion, stop weeds, and deter ants.

Step 5: Final Compaction and Finishing Touches

Once all the joints have been filled, give the whole area a final compaction. This involves using the compactor or tamper on the entire surface, including over the jointing sand  (again with a protective mat or carpet underneath).

Once compacted, check for any low spots or joints that need a final top-up of sand. Sweep in a little more jointing sand if needed, and use a leaf blower to remove any remaining debris from the surface.

If you’re using polymeric sand, this is when you’d mist the surface lightly with water to activate the bonding agent. Just be sure not to overwater — a fine spray is all you need. Refer to the product instructions for exact timing and drying recommendations. 

Step 6: Seal Your Pavers (Optional)

Sealing your pavers is an optional step, but it can help protect them from stains and fading, as well as enhance their colour. There are various types of sealers available, including water-based and solvent-based options.

Before applying any sealer, make sure the surface is completely clean and dry. Remove any debris or dirt that may have settled on the surface since the last cleaning. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for application and drying times.

Pro tip: Consider sealing in multiple coats for maximum protection. However, be careful not to overdo it as too much sealer can create a glossy or slippery finish.

Step 7: Maintenance and Upkeep

You’ve put the work in and  now have a beautiful, functional patio or walkway to enjoy. To ensure your hard work lasts, it’s important to properly maintain and upkeep your pavers.

Here are some tips:

• Regularly sweep or use a leaf blower to remove debris from the surface of the pavers. This will prevent buildup and potential staining.
• Periodically wash the surface with a mild detergent and water to remove any dirt or grime that may have accumulated. You can also use a pressure washer, but be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for proper usage.
• If you notice any weeds growing between the joints, remove them by hand or use an appropriate weed killer. Avoid using harsh chemicals that could potentially damage your pavers.
• Inspect your pavers for any cracks or damage. If you notice any issues, address them promptly to prevent further damage.
• Reapply sealer every few years to maintain protection and enhance the colour of your pavers.

By following these maintenance tips, you can keep your newly cleaned and sealed pavers looking beautiful for years to come.

What Paving Pattern Should I Use?

Paving patterns look great, but they also affect how strong, practical, and easy to install your paved area will be. Some layouts work for driveways and high-traffic zones, while others possess decorative finishes ideal patios or garden paths.

Here are some of the most popular and practical options:

Herringbone (45° or 90°)

This interlocking V-shape pattern is one of the strongest you can lay, making it ideal for driveways and high-traffic areas. It holds up well under pressure and resists shifting over time. It also adds a bold, eye-catching design element to the space.

Basketweave

Basketweave gives a woven appearance by alternating pairs of pavers laid at right angles. It’s great for courtyards, patios, and garden paths — adding texture and visual interest. However, it’s not recommended for driveways or areas that need to handle heavy loads, as it doesn’t offer the same structural strength as herringbone.

Running Bond (Brick Bond)

This classic pattern features pavers laid in staggered rows, much like traditional brickwork. It’s simple, versatile, and easy to install — making it a top choice for paths, patios, and even some light-use driveways.

Stack Bond

A grid-style layout where all joints align both vertically and horizontally. It’s clean and modern but best suited for low-traffic areas, as it doesn’t interlock like herringbone or brick bond.

Circular Pattern

Perfect for creating a focal point in a courtyard or entryway. This layout uses curved or radial pavers (or kits) to form a round design. It’s usually used as a decorative feature within a larger paved area rather than across an entire surface.

Random Pattern

Also known as modular or ashlar, this style combines different-sized pavers in a set layout to give a natural, informal look. It’s great for patios, pool surrounds, and garden paths, and works particularly well with natural stone or textured pavers.

Diagonal or 45° Patterns

Laying your pavers on an angle can add a sense of movement and make smaller spaces feel larger. Patterns like 45° herringbone or stretcher bond with diagonal headers are popular choices when you want a more dynamic design.

Tip: If it’s your first paving project, go with something simple like stretcher bond or 90° herringbone — they’re easier to lay and require less cutting. Save the circulars and complex inlays for your next DIY masterpiece.

Wrapping Up

And that’s it — your paving project is complete! From planning and prep to laying, jointing, and sealing, you’ve gone through every step to create a solid, great-looking paved area.

There’s no doubt that DIY paving is a labor-intensive project, but the satisfaction of seeing your finished work and knowing that you did it yourself is priceless. Plus, by following these steps and taking your time, you can ensure that your paved area will last for years to come.

So go ahead and invite friends over for a barbecue or enjoy a peaceful evening on your new patio — you deserve it after all your hard work! And if you have any questions or need any advice along the way, don’t hesitate to reach out to professionals or other experienced DIYers for guidance. Happy paving!

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Frequently Asked Questions

What do you put down before laying pavers?

You’ll  need to create a solid, stable base before laying your pavers. This typically involves excavating the area, adding a layer of crushed rock (called road base), and compacting it down. After that, spread about 3cm of bedding sand over the top and smooth it out.  This will ensure a level surface for your pavers to sit on.

How do you cut pavers?

To cut pavers, you’ll need either a chisel and hammer or a specialized saw designed for cutting stone. Mark the line where you want to make the cut with a straight edge, then use the chisel and hammer or saw to carefully break or cut along the line. Be sure to wear protective eyewear when using tools!

Should I seal my paved area?

Sealing your paved area can help protect it from stains, UV damage, and weed growth. It’s especially important if you’re using porous pavers like natural stone or clay. However, sealing is not necessary for all types of pavers and may not be recommended by some manufacturers. It’s best to consult with a professional or do thorough research before deciding whether or not to seal your paved area.

What is the cheapest way to lay paving?

The cheapest way to lay paving may be using gravel, pebbles and concrete pavers. These budget-friendly materials can still create a visually appealing paved area, but vary in installation difficulty. Concrete, when laid, properly will last for years and is a cost-effective option for larger areas.